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BORN OF LEAF, CLAY AND RITUAL

Artisans balance heat, water and skill to revive age-old tea traditions and re-create Song-era ceramic masterpieces, Yang Feiyue and Hu Meidong report in Nanping, Fujian.

By Yang Feiyue and Hu Meidong | CHINA DAILY | Updated: 2025-10-30 09:08
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Locals air-cool tea leaves in the mountainous area. [Photo provided to China Daily]

What makes it truly magical is that the artist uses only clear water to create intricate patterns on the tea's surface.

I watch in amazement as Zhang dips his ladle in water and begins painting. Slowly, the dark tea foam reveals the outline of a blooming flower — no pigments, just water and flawless technique.

He explains this isn't like modern latte art. Instead, it's about using water to manipulate the tea foam's density, creating contrasting shades within a single color.

Each tool carries a poetic name and personality. For instance, the tea whisk, called the marshal, commands and transforms the liquid into a structured, frothy "army", ready for the battle of creation.

I can see the obsession and passion of Zhang as he goes all out to show me the charm of the ritual that represents a conversation between tea, water and human creativity.

Enduring glaze

After experiencing the tea and ritual, I drive an hour to Jianyang to explore the birthplace of Jianzhan, or Jian ware, the historical vessel central to traditional tea culture.

I come across Liao Chengyi at a Jianzhan workshop in Houjing village.

Before I get to see any Jianzhan items, a 30-meter-long dragon-shaped wood-fired kiln immediately hits me between the eyes and knocks the wind out of me.

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